Matt306 Posted May 10, 2021 Share Posted May 10, 2021 Sorry @Beans I pinched your black look on the back panel. I have done all the paint work so admire at 10metres 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Bancroft Posted May 10, 2021 Author Share Posted May 10, 2021 Work on my Saloon progresses, without roof a couple of weeks ago! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Bancroft Posted May 10, 2021 Author Share Posted May 10, 2021 With secondhand roof fitted.... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Bancroft Posted May 10, 2021 Author Share Posted May 10, 2021 More pics. NOS wings and repairs to nose cone and lower valence. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
npanne Posted May 10, 2021 Share Posted May 10, 2021 Mine’s still fairly new to me and had sat mostly dormant for 18 months or so, so the “done” and “to-do” lists are basically the little niggly things that surface when a car gets put back into active duty. Various electrical gremlins have been sorted, a new boot carpet has been fitted - next it’s a service, a new gasket on the rocker cover and maybe some trial fitting of different wheels... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted May 11, 2021 Share Posted May 11, 2021 Went out to the garage the other night to clean/paint some metal parts for an arcade machine I'm restoring, so I decided to see if the Triumphs were in a good mood and tried firing them up. The Dolomite behaved and fire up no problems, but the Spitfire is clearly sulking, struggled to start, when it did it over-rev'd and then died.... and then it pee'd fuel out of the rear carb. Might need a bit of TLC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rubce Posted May 11, 2021 Share Posted May 11, 2021 23 hours ago, Tim Bancroft said: Work on my Saloon progresses, without roof a couple of weeks ago! Oooooh, a four door Stag😉 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rubce Posted May 11, 2021 Share Posted May 11, 2021 10 hours ago, yorkshire_spam said: Went out to the garage the other night to clean/paint some metal parts for an arcade machine I'm restoring, so I decided to see if the Triumphs were in a good mood and tried firing them up. The Dolomite behaved and fire up no problems, but the Spitfire is clearly sulking, struggled to start, when it did it over-rev'd and then died.... and then it pee'd fuel out of the rear carb. Might need a bit of TLC. they hate being ignored! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Wilcock Posted May 11, 2021 Share Posted May 11, 2021 '73 Toledo Improve the braking is a must!! Get the horn working again Get the speedo working regularly rather than sporadically Some sort of heat plate to stop the Manifold boiling my Brake resevoir 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted May 13, 2021 Share Posted May 13, 2021 Added a proper fuel cap and new seals . Checked plugs quite clean. I think my carb mounts are fooked. I have ordered solid mounts from Dolomite Club the new ones offered are apparently rubbish 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted May 13, 2021 Share Posted May 13, 2021 The carb mounts 20210513_181544.mp4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beans Posted May 13, 2021 Share Posted May 13, 2021 (edited) I have seen worse recently 🤪 But yes they need replacing soon Edited May 13, 2021 by Beans 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A TR7 16V Posted May 16, 2021 Share Posted May 16, 2021 Trivial really, but the USB player in the Herald has been dropping out slightly on big base notes and a needed it not to. I noticed that it was also making the interior light pulse on heavy base. I reckoned the problem may be the feed to the permanently live fuse (I put a three fuse box inside the old regulator when I swapped to an alternator). So, I wired a 6mm sq thin-wall feed direct from the battery positive, and similarly uprated the earth from the braid end on the body to the head unit. It may not be the ideal, permanent fix, which is like to involve uprating the feeds to and from the fuse, but it works well enough - the head is fused anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Keys Posted May 20, 2021 Share Posted May 20, 2021 On 10/05/2021 at 21:49, Tim Bancroft said: More pics. NOS wings and repairs to nose cone and lower valence. Looking good tim. Swift work too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Keys Posted May 20, 2021 Share Posted May 20, 2021 I just need to get the stag out of storage first. Will worry about what to do when ive done that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard w Posted May 20, 2021 Share Posted May 20, 2021 Thanks to loads of help from Steve Radley and Dave Maton I now have a working heater. New matrix and foam seals help, but not half as much as clearing the blockages so that hot water actually gets to the matrix! Hopefully the RBRR will be warmer than the South Coast Run was last October 🥶🤞 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppy916 Posted June 2, 2021 Share Posted June 2, 2021 On 03/05/2021 at 00:17, TimW said: Then I need to pull the engine to change the thrust washers. The light flywheel makes it kangeroo in very slow moving traffic so needs lots of clutching which in turn has worn the thrusts. Tim I hope you considered the full 360 deg option for your new thrust washers, I hope mine will out last me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimW Posted June 2, 2021 Share Posted June 2, 2021 I'm not at all familiar with this option.. Details, Details, Details! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppy916 Posted June 2, 2021 Share Posted June 2, 2021 when I built my engine I got the local engineering guy to machine the rear main bearing cap, http://www.ocservice.co.uk/services/balancing, I live near Winchester Hants. then I measured the crank end float, told him what size thrust washers I wanted, I forget what material he used I know it's a soild bronze of sorts, Then when fitting them I drilled and tapped the mains cap and used a counter sunk brass screws to hold them in place as you can see in the photos, they are not going to fall into the sump any time soon ! I also remember keeping the tolerance very tight, I got the idea from these people https://customthrustwashers.com I feel it's a much better solution than the standard set up, so mine are 360 deg's both sides of the mains cap, an over kill may be, but I know they aren't going to wear out any time soon, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimW Posted June 2, 2021 Share Posted June 2, 2021 12 minutes ago, Guppy916 said: when I built my engine I got the local engineering guy to machine the rear main bearing cap, http://www.ocservice.co.uk/services/balancing, I live near Winchester Hants. then I measured the crank end float, told him what size thrust washers I wanted, I forget what material he used I know it's a soild bronze of sorts, Then when fitting them I drilled and tapped the mains cap and used a counter sunk brass screws to hold them in place as you can see in the photos, they are not going to fall into the sump any time soon ! I also remember keeping the tolerance very tight, I got the idea from these people https://customthrustwashers.com I feel it's a much better solution than the standard set up, so mine are 360 deg's both sides of the mains cap, an over kill may be, but I know they aren't going to wear out any time soon, Sounds great but that's just not an option for me unfortunately. I'm using a friend's workshop which is also his business premises so can't have the car there long enough to do anything that involved. Nice idea though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vader Posted June 2, 2021 Share Posted June 2, 2021 Dropped the diff on the Stag to replace the seals and fit a new gasket. Don’t think the diff leaks now. Just all the other leaks to sort now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted June 5, 2021 Share Posted June 5, 2021 Replaced my gearbox mount which was well overdue. Fitted powerlite starter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimW Posted June 5, 2021 Share Posted June 5, 2021 (edited) Busy day today on the GT6 New LSD diff in and it's quiet, rad removed to check crank end float and it was on Bottom tolerance so didn't need to remove engine. Fitted new spin on filter adapter with integral oil cooler takeoff and rerouted the cooler lines, fixed high beam and flash, swapped engine mounts over so the were the right way up. Modified the rad cowl and fitted it with my cold air supply from the front grill, replaced my canister airbox with a K&N filter and routed a cold air feed from the rad cowl and finally had my replacement rear hatch hinge/spring mech sandblasted and painted silver to protect it, its going to be body colour at some point, then fitted it so the tailgate now stays open. Finally got the exhaust to fit so it doesn't rattle on the chassis. Think that's about it. Had loads of help from a member of the Worcester group and a couple of members from the Shropshire group. received_169523571792207.mp4 Edited June 5, 2021 by TimW Pic and vid added 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Bancroft Posted June 5, 2021 Author Share Posted June 5, 2021 Good to see Tim, hope the diff works out for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted June 6, 2021 Share Posted June 6, 2021 Trying to work up some energy to stop the Grimmer exhaust rattling on my Stag. Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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