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What have you done recently or are planning to do soon to your Triumph?


Tim Bancroft
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Mine’s still fairly new to me and had sat mostly dormant for 18 months or so, so the “done” and “to-do” lists are basically the little niggly things that surface when a car gets put back into active duty. 
Various electrical gremlins have been sorted, a new boot carpet has been fitted - next it’s a service, a new gasket on the rocker cover and maybe some trial fitting of different wheels...

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Went out to the garage the other night to clean/paint some metal parts for an arcade machine I'm restoring, so I decided to see if the Triumphs were in a good mood and tried firing them up.

The Dolomite behaved and fire up no problems, but the Spitfire is clearly sulking, struggled to start, when it did it over-rev'd and then died.... and then it pee'd fuel out of the rear carb. Might need a bit of TLC.

 

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10 hours ago, yorkshire_spam said:

Went out to the garage the other night to clean/paint some metal parts for an arcade machine I'm restoring, so I decided to see if the Triumphs were in a good mood and tried firing them up.

The Dolomite behaved and fire up no problems, but the Spitfire is clearly sulking, struggled to start, when it did it over-rev'd and then died.... and then it pee'd fuel out of the rear carb. Might need a bit of TLC.

 

they hate being ignored!

 

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Added a proper fuel cap and new seals .

 

Checked plugs quite clean.

 

I think my carb mounts are fooked. I have ordered solid mounts from Dolomite Club the new ones offered are apparently rubbish

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Trivial really, but the USB player in the Herald has been dropping out slightly on big base notes and a needed it not to. I noticed that it was also making the interior light pulse on heavy base. I reckoned the problem may be the feed to the permanently live fuse (I put a three fuse box inside the old regulator when I swapped to an alternator). So, I wired a 6mm sq thin-wall feed direct from the battery positive, and similarly uprated the earth from the braid end on the body to the head unit.

It may not be the ideal, permanent fix, which is like to involve uprating the feeds to and from the fuse, but it works well enough - the head is fused anyway.

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Thanks to loads of help from Steve Radley and Dave Maton I now have a working heater.

New matrix and foam seals help, but not half as much as clearing the blockages so that hot water actually gets to the matrix!

Hopefully the RBRR will be warmer than the South Coast Run was last October 🥶🤞

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  • 2 weeks later...

 

On 03/05/2021 at 00:17, TimW said:

Then I need to pull the engine to change the thrust washers. The light flywheel makes it kangeroo in very slow moving traffic so needs lots of clutching which in turn has worn the thrusts. 

Tim I hope you considered the full 360 deg option for your new thrust washers, I hope mine will out last me 

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when I built my engine I got the local engineering guy to machine the rear main bearing cap, http://www.ocservice.co.uk/services/balancing, I live near Winchester Hants. 

then I measured the crank end float, told him what size thrust washers I wanted, I forget what material he used I know it's a soild bronze of sorts, Then when fitting them I drilled and tapped the mains cap and used a counter sunk brass screws to hold them in place as you can see in the photos, they are not going to fall into the sump any time soon ! I also remember keeping the tolerance very tight,

I got the idea from these people  https://customthrustwashers.com

I feel it's a much better solution than the standard set up, so mine are 360 deg's both sides of the mains cap, an over kill may be, but I know they aren't going to wear out any time soon, 

 

 

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12 minutes ago, Guppy916 said:

when I built my engine I got the local engineering guy to machine the rear main bearing cap, http://www.ocservice.co.uk/services/balancing, I live near Winchester Hants. 

then I measured the crank end float, told him what size thrust washers I wanted, I forget what material he used I know it's a soild bronze of sorts, Then when fitting them I drilled and tapped the mains cap and used a counter sunk brass screws to hold them in place as you can see in the photos, they are not going to fall into the sump any time soon ! I also remember keeping the tolerance very tight,

I got the idea from these people  https://customthrustwashers.com

I feel it's a much better solution than the standard set up, so mine are 360 deg's both sides of the mains cap, an over kill may be, but I know they aren't going to wear out any time soon, 

 

 

Sounds great but that's just not an option for me unfortunately. I'm using a friend's workshop which is also his business premises so can't have the car there long enough to do anything that involved. Nice idea though. 

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Posted (edited)

Busy day today on the GT6 New LSD diff in and it's quiet, rad removed to check crank end float and it was on Bottom tolerance so didn't need to remove engine. Fitted new spin on filter adapter with integral oil cooler takeoff and rerouted the cooler lines, fixed high beam and flash, swapped engine mounts over so the were the right way up. Modified the rad cowl and fitted it with my cold air supply from the front grill, replaced my canister airbox with a K&N filter and routed  a cold air feed from the rad cowl and finally had my replacement rear hatch hinge/spring mech sandblasted and painted silver to protect it, its going to be body colour at some point, then fitted it so the tailgate now stays open. Finally got the exhaust to fit so it doesn't rattle on the chassis. Think that's about it. Had loads of help from a member of the Worcester group and a couple of members from the Shropshire group. 

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Edited by TimW
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