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Who's got what to do for 2018 ?


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A day of "playing" has revealed a few more issues..

both front struts leaking, so couple of hours spent looking for a good pair in the stash.

The MOT said "rear brakes out of balance but within tolerance". Well if not working at all fits that description, then it was spot on!

Looks like I was too late with the relays for the headlights, column switch had already failed.

As has all my spares.. :-(

pinched one off another car in the end.

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Saturday saw "operation refit head to Toledo" (fitted with TR7 engine) start and sadly fail.

Cleaning up the valves a strange issue on 2 on the inlets, it looked remarkably like a circular fracture was starting, as if the stem was being pulled? When the backs were checked, they appeared fine, but the seed of doubt/fear was planted. Pulled the valves off the spare head and they all looked as new. But of course, needed lapping in. And I hadn't used my "stick and paste" for years, so had to buy one. The local spares shop came up trumps.

Then that had the knock-on effect of valve clearances, set by shims. After much faffing and cam in/out, got all the inlets to the specced 8 thou. The exhausts should be 18 thou, but range from 18-22 thou, but that is the best I can do with what I have. Probably better than many....

I need to pick up a helicoil insert for the exhaust threads in the head, I was one short. They all looked iff, and a simple job while it is all apart.

I "think" the headwill now be quite easy to get back on now. Then just a case of a bitof welding, plus some stronger rear springs to cope with the co-drivers errrr, how can I put this? Size...

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Oh dear, Clive, that makes it sound like you're even worse than me...

Toby has, over the weekend, had his gearbox cover and door drop glasses fitted. I couldn't find my "special tool" for installing the weather strips, though, so that's still outstanding. I suspect we'll end up doing the run with no carpets - they're on order but not due in time - and there will be last minute seat swapping with the GT6. This week I need to dig the soft top out of the loft and fit that. I also need to take him for an MOT...

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I am not worried about getting it all back together. However, the retorquing mileages do worry me a tad. Currently thinking retorque after, a heat cycle then 100 miles, then "about" 500 miles. I reckon at the factory they probably got one heat cycle, or it was done at the garage prior to being sold. Then re-torque at the first service, guessing 500 miles. That woudl have been it. 

The DM should add  the required miles for the final re-toque before the start....as long as I am not still welding.

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Sounds like yours is about as good as mine Colin, although at least I had a few months headstart.

It's now running again after a new clutch, reground crank with new mains and big ends, new oil pump, new timing chain and new seals and gaskets. And since dropping the suspension to get the engine out revealed how bad pretty much every bush and ball joint was it now has new wheel bearings, springs and struts, strut top bushes and thrusts, polybushes throughout, a recon steering rack, new seals in the PAS pump and new ball joints, braided hoses, Stag calipers and discs and mintex pads. Plus a coat of paint over everything...

Just in the process of fitting up the PAS pump (now I've worked out that I've not made a hash of things and the radiator hose really does run directly in front of the adjuster) and I might be able to drive the thing again 

"Just" UJs, rear brakes and a diff swap to go. Plus relay the lights (and replace the sealed beam main beam units) and wire in a couple of extra fused cigarette lighter sockets.

 

Please don't look at the bodywork. If it still has the N/S wing when we get out of Scotland I'll be amazed.

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I've got one ready to go in actually- looked a neat way of doing it and as bonus cheap too. I bought one with 4 H4 connectors, I'll probably put H4s in the centre as well so I have quad dips and quad mains- a bit naughty but hey. Not going to put silly bright bulbs in though- I'm used to crap headlights so even halfway reasonable ones will seem great!

PAS pump in, will fill it up and see if it still leaks tomorrow...

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Quick note of the cheap looms. They work perfectly well BUT I really recommend spraying all the relay connections etc with spray grease/waxoil or anything to protect them from rusting. The one in my Toledo rusted very badly, and stopped working. Then couldn't get the relays out, all down to rusty connections.

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I took Toby for his first MOT since 1987 this morning. Got a pass on re-test as the (very experienced, older) tester noticed several loose bolts, which he tightened. He wanted to log the fail to make a point about MOT exemption, which I completely agree with so was quite happy to do so.

Then my co-driver got to drive a Triumph for the first time ever... and we promptly broke down. The coil connection in the distributor had fallen off.

So my list of jobs to do now includes "check ALL the bolts for tightness" and "see whether the nasty Delco points design can be made better".

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Just got back from attending the drivers meeting, a round trip of 430 miles in the old girl. Drove through strong winds and driving rain, testing just about every thing on the car. Only fault, as we pulled up at home, sat nav, radio, interior light and horn stopped working. Checked and changed fuse, everything working again.🙂. Averaged 29.96 mpg over the weekend, so well happy with that. Car is a bit lumpy at idle especially when cold, so will check timing and fuelling, but plug colours look Ok, oil and water levels also fine. Overall a good weekend giving confidence for the run.

John 

Car 33 Triumph 2000 mk1

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