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Mk2 restoration


byakk0

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4058 wrote:
triumph vitesse. (Dirk will come along and tell you the year, im not sure)

it is a nice one, but the Champaign roadster is a beautiful car.


The man said it all,
Triumph 14/60 Vitesse, "4 Light Sport saloon " 1937, Very similar to the older Gloria Vitesse's exterior only the front bumpers differ, they do not have the cut out but now reached to the front bumper, and a few minor styling differences.
The main difference is the engine and gearbox, from 1937 onwards this one uses Triumph's own 4 cylinder 1800cc engine with twin SU carbs wheras the older used the coventry climax engine, and the gearbox where Triumph finally start cutting their own gears.

The roadster is a 2LT 1949 model.

Dirk

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  • 7 months later...

Shame(dissappointed)(dissappointed)(dissappointed) on us...

It has been slumbering a bit ever since we decided to participate in the RBRR with the Renown, Who also needs major work done to it.
I did continue a bit though, the bonnet had previously seen some impact and was welded up and then lead loaded to make it look correct-ish.
I have bought a dolly and hammer set and have slowly been knocking it back into shape.
here is a few pictures of work in progress

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First I needed to "Open"the curve a bit so I could get the dolly in. The lower side of the nose was flattened and not a nice round curve as the other side, I did not have a correct dolly for this, but a "T" made out of welded round bar was the correct diameter.
Then also slowly the "dimples" were knocked out, on the last picture you can still see a low spot needing more attention.
The most difficult part is at the middle where the front grill attaches, so far the "dip" as seen in the second picture has not disappeared yet, it is less pronounced now so I might just leave it and add some Filler.
And then there is where the tears were welded up. The material is much less malleable, a bit like scar tissue, but I am confident that this will flatten out correctly also.

Once I'm happy with the top then the lower part of the nose has to be pushed upwards a bit, on the last picture you can see it is still pointing "down" compared to the other side.
Challenging will also be the Grill, as this is visible, on the MK 2 the chrome sits behind the steel, it needs much more work done to it to make it presentable.

Mean while Shaun and I went on a shopping expedition , when we came over to pick up the engine for the renown we also drove to Somewhere right off the map, so remote even the Satnav did not know where to find is, Neither did Postman Pat when we asked him.

Still this is what we came back with, now freshly returned from the Blasters

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So now I am waiting on my thrusty Welder ( if he reads this......) to replace the original panel, and then that will be the welding over with.
I had made a repair panel, but did not thrust my dimensions ( or my skills)  ;D so when this panel came up for sale I thought it better to take the plunge.

Previously  I bought a repair panel for a Herald, thinking we might be able to adapt and cut it up, but not only is the form different, Much steeper, but also the reinforcement channels are differently shaped. So if somebody is looking for one cheaply, I can bring it with me to the Plough in October.... :)

We also picked a rear deck up for Shaun's Mk3

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In for a penny... in for a pound ... I also took the plunge and bought a new steering rack. It turned out to be cheaper to by a new one that to replace the track rods , bellows,....

The new rack is a "quick"rack, if I do not like it I can always swap the parts round and recondition the old one.

And that is unfortunately where we are at now.

Dirk

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nice work. Keep tapping away. The nose is tough to reshape. Did nearly the same thing on my GT6. I had to make a slice on the underside to relieve some of the stress and bring the metal down.



I actually removed the strip under the nose and made a new one. Easier to hide mistakes on the GT6 though, as the grille is in the front.

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Here is the rest of my photos in this series. Perhaps they may help?
Granted, that strip on the underside needs to be removed to effectively do this.
I had a flat bar clamped to the inside, and it brought the low spot out and made it workable. Without the stress relief cuts I couldn't have gotten it to flatten out.
Of course, I ground the welded part as flat as possible. Being on the underside, probably no one will ever even notice.









My nose was turned down too, by about 1 inch. I had to raise the center that entire amount to get the grill to fit. A lot of working and I finally managed to bring it up without distorting to topside at all.

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Byakk0,

These pictures are great.
thanks
I might have to cut the same stress relieve as up to now the dent defeats all attempts.

I first tried to get a flat bar in between but the gap was not wide enough and the top edge of the bar started marking the top panel, so that is why I opened it and used the round bar first to recreate the curve.
To finish off I will probably go same route as you. but First need to make myself a "Slapper" out of a leaf spring so I can get rid of the hammer marks.

If you would be able to 3D project the original shape on my bonnet it would come out completely distorted. The front was asymmetrically turned down but then, where the Power bulge starts on yours it is actually turned up, making a groove between the center of the pressing and the panel. I'll try to make a picture to show what I mean. It is however quite "fluid" as there is no break in the curve of the top panel, so I'll probably leave that one and fill the groove as before. My hammering would probably make it worse and as it is now it would only be noticeable if you measured direct against an Original pressing

D

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 8 months later...

tag welding the new panel in position.
The replacement panel was very thin at the edges, the lip looked more like grandma's lace knickers than the solid steel, so we left about 1 cm of the old panel in position, and cut the new panel to overlap with the old. Too pity I had already un-stitched the spot welds, more welding to do.

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