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Mk2 restoration


byakk0

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Jb,

Wish you all the luck with your resto, and dont forget to start a thread! We all love pictures.

And when the going gets tough, stick a picture of a finished gt6 on your wall so you will see what all the hard work will be for!  :)

Glad we could help, all I will say is invest in lots of mole grips to hold panels in place before welding, and don't be afraid to turn up the power on said welder!

Thanks for your comments,

The work will re-start next month when dirk is home from his rest, oops sorry I mean work!  :P

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  • 2 weeks later...
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These have been taken after she was dipped in the acid bath and then rinsed and "pacified"
Result: All the rust gone and a bare steel car. Most of the paint was burned off in a previous step when the car is heated and the flaking paint washed off with an HP washer. I was told that this is so the acid doesnt get contaminated too much and last a few cars longer

Pure Automotive porn!

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2806 wrote:
COOOOO that is impressive. So much easier than removing it all by hand! How much and where?

Regards

Bruce


The stripping process was just short of 900 GBP while the painting added appx 1000 GBP to that.
As far as I have been able to see there are only 2 companies doing this, SPL and Pro-strip. I choose Pro-strip as they were cheapest by quite a margin. Also their turn around time was better.
From talking to the guys on the floor I also learned that their acid will pacify on contact with air, which means that the process stops after a while. So no risk of it sitting inside the chassis slowly eating away yr good steel.

There is also a company in Holland doing similar, but they never replied to my queries so I'm not sure on what their proces does or not. I have seen a tread in the TR7 section of somebody who used them, ( Mr Beans? Green TR7 /8 ??? )

Re Bracing: Shaun doesnt take risks he! He also forbid me to remove it before the car is back on the Chassis, make sense... (and easy to handle)

Dirk

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

well no update for long,
Shaun and I finally got some last remaining welding done ( he welds me [s]looks[/s] :) supervises)

quite a few holes appeared and ho horror, with the sun low we noticed that the rear seat pan assembly, which kind off sits over the back axle had become wafer thin, with pinholes all along.
Where the reinforcement plates were Shaun welded new inserts but what should we do with the remainder? the idea now is to cover it with filler. Any other ideas? Needless to say the panel is not longer available....

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And then disaster struck
Shaun being a real English Gentleman and having no faith in us belgian serving correct tea, let alone that we should know how to brew some
So for the 1500 cuppa he brings his own, Me having to supply only the milk and hot water....
but then he spilled his cuppa!!!!! following pictures are not suitable for the faith hearted or below 16 viewers....

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2053 wrote:
And then disaster struck
Shaun being a real English Gentleman and having no faith in us belgian serving correct tea, let alone that we should know how to brew some
So for the 1500 cuppa he brings his own, Me having to supply only the milk and hot water....
but then he spilled his cuppa!!!!! following pictures are not suitable for the faith hearted or below 16 viewers....


noooo!!!  ??)


;D ;D

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That panel needs the thin, holey section cut out and replaced, I think. The floor near it also looks thin - have you tried shining a light up from underneath? I did that with my GT6, and the rust-free Californian body became somewhat less rust-free. Cue one new right hand floor pan.

A garage used for rebuilding English cars really should have proper tea-making facilities, you know. That way you can stop for a cuppa, look at what you've done and contemplate the end result, the road ahead or that familiar looking bolt on the floor.

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Nick_Moore wrote:
That panel needs the thin, holey section cut out and replaced, I think. The floor near it also looks thin - have you tried shining a light up from underneath? I did that with my GT6, and the rust-free Californian body became somewhat less rust-free. Cue one new right hand floor pan.
.


The boot floor is OK, what look like spots are actually grinding dust.

A bit of a dillema, new panels are not available, we have no facility to make the channels in a flat steel plate. Plate it over with a plain plate? looks a bit bodgery if anyone would inspect.... Time to invest in a roller and die set?

Dirk

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Looking good. Shouldn't be difficult to make a repair panel with 'channels' - use a chisel as 'form' and shape with a hammer  8)

Re boot floor panel:
Is this original?

Is this the side flange (see picture)?
Normally they go up, not down ... newer seen one like this before.

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JensH wrote:
Looking good. Shouldn't be difficult to make a repair panel with 'channels' - use a chisel as 'form' and shape with a hammer  8)

Re boot floor panel:
Is this original?

Is this the side flange (see picture)?
Normally they go up, not down ... newer seen one like this before.


I think it's just the way the photo is, but yes it's the original panel, it goes up!  ;)

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  • 5 weeks later...

Back on the rig so got time now for a little update

First the panel,
I cut the shape roughly out of the old bootlid and went to work with a chisel like Jens suggested.

I used a piece of cut off from the stable doors to make a mould with the router and went to work with hammer.
The result is not bad but not that good neither.
Issue was that i had open ended the "channel" so where they end the profile is not that clean / sharp as I would have liked. I might give it another try with a new mould.

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