What have you done recently or are planning to do soon to your Triumph?

[glang]

39 minutes ago, yorkshire_spam said:

Decided to check the front wheel bearings on the Dolomite before the 10CR, glad I did... right side showing a wear pattern in the thick outer washer - looks like the outer bearing has been seizing and the whole thing spinning against the washer. New Timken bearings greased and fitted! 

If the Dolomite has the same type of wheel bearing as the small chassis models where it should have a little play then the wear you have seen is normal. A bearing seizing (quite possible if done up too tight) would cause damage to hub and stub axle but otherwise the complete item should slowly rotate and over time does cause wear on the outer D washer....

[yorkshire_spam]

5 minutes ago, glang said:

If the Dolomite has the same type of wheel bearing as the small chassis models where it should have a little play then the wear you have seen is normal. A bearing seizing (quite possible if done up too tight) would cause damage to hub and stub axle but otherwise the complete item should slowly rotate and over time does cause wear on the outer D washer....

Interesting, thanks! Yes, I adjusted them up with the appropriate end float (Similar to the Spitfire). Only the right side was showing wear on the D washer. 

 

[glang]

Ive got exactly the same thing on my Vitesse, one side only, so panicked asked some experts and consequently, after turning the D washer over, have left it as it is👍

[Piran2]

Getting ready for the Silverstone classic: seatbelts fitted, doors close (and stay closed!), Carpets fastened, top up oil, water, fuel, air in tyres and load the camping stuff in the boot 

[iani]

GT6: Radiator filled, electric fan reconnected & tested. Tappets adjusted, distributor fitted, DCOE's fitted and fuel line reconnected. Then I tried to fire it up, I have removed the choke mechanisms from my carbs, previously they fired up fine without, it took a bit of tweaking to get the engine to fire and then keep running but I got there. Still need to balance the carbs and adjust the mixture but I am encouraged, I also need to set the tappets again as one is a little noisy. 

PI Saloon: replacement Desmo mirror arrived via eBay today, it's in great condition, just need to persuade my wife to put her hand in the small access slot in the door again.

[Craig]

Never really liked the location of the wiper switch on the far side of the Herald dashboard, so I thought I would try a second overdrive switch. Everything now in easy reach of the steering wheel. 

[RobPearce]

Toby's been in the dog house over deciding not to play nice, but now that Tessa and the GT6 are both usable I decided to see if I can figure out what's up. He's developed a new fault - the electric fan controller is going into fault mitigation mode (suggesting it can't see the temperature sensor). But for now, I've done a compression test (all about equal between 125 and 140) and changed the plugs and oil.

[iani]

GT6: Retrimmed seats & handbrake trim pieces fitted today, I'm pleased with how it turned out. Car is now assembled, starts & drives, brakes need another bleed & the DCOEs need setting up properly.

TR6: Neglected again

PI Saloon: low voltage reading investigated, gauge consistently reads 0.5V low, will live with this for now

[mole42]

Delivered Mabel, my lovely Stag, stripped and ready for her 50th Birthday facelift to the restorers in Oswestry.

Here we are loading up:

Edited September 4, 2022 by mole42

[Piran2]

Having gone to the silverstone classic, spent the day fixing her again 🙂 Found the strange knock I had from the drivers door when going round corners (I'd wondered where that screwdriver had gone 🤪), fixed the drivers doo so that it would open again - I think the internal mechanism had shifted slightly. Started to look at UJ and diffs (may need to do some work in that area next - and if it's got a non-original diff on that may go some way to explain why the speedo is so far out.

 

[RobPearce]

Yesterday I removed the drop glass from Tessa's driver's door, re-attached it to the control channel, then reassembled the door. Then I fitted the new trim card. Today I've fitted the new passenger trim (the old ones had both come unstitched along the bottom so the pockets were just sleeves and your maps ended up on the floor when you opened the door).

[Clive]

After the 10CR I need to

1. Find a better way of mounting the exhaust to the diff. The Mikalor clamp I had used fractured at the end, so a temp fix  using a jubilee clip (thank you Dirk and Shaun) but it probably needs a little thought long term.

2. My drivers doorglass appears to just sit in its runners. Discovered by accident, could have been like it for years. I think a couple of blobs of PU adhesive will be the fix.

[Tim Bancroft]

Foolowing successful completion of the 10CR, my Saloon needs the following work:

1. Engine out for a re-build. The bottom end has not been touched for 18 years, bar new timing chains and whilst oil pressure is still relatively ok, the car is burning oil and down on power. Still feels very smooth though. Full re-build with some mild racey bits.

2. Gearbox is noisey in 1st/2nd/3rd, so needs looking at, layshaft?

3. Diff needs a pinion oil seal

4. New pads and discs

5. Discover where the water is coming into the car as the rear footwells are filling up with rainwater when driving in heavy rain.

But before this, the car whilst being mobile is due to have a new wiring loom fitted to her, plus some aniciilary wiring.

All in all though, I am so impressed with the old girl, she does just keep going.

[TRTOM2498]

On 12/09/2022 at 07:01, Tim Bancroft said:

Foolowing successful completion of the 10CR, my Saloon needs the following work:

1. Engine out for a re-build. The bottom end has not been touched for 18 years, bar new timing chains and whilst oil pressure is still relatively ok, the car is burning oil and down on power. Still feels very smooth though. Full re-build with some mild racey bits.

2. Gearbox is noisey in 1st/2nd/3rd, so needs looking at, layshaft?

3. Diff needs a pinion oil seal

4. New pads and discs

5. Discover where the water is coming into the car as the rear footwells are filling up with rainwater when driving in heavy rain.

But before this, the car whilst being mobile is due to have a new wiring loom fitted to her, plus some aniciilary wiring.

All in all though, I am so impressed with the old girl, she does just keep going.

Hi Tim,

Sounds good. Have you ever had the diff rebuilt/changed the output bearings ?

 

Cheers.

[Dave Clasper]

On 03/09/2022 at 11:49, RobPearce said:

I've done a compression test (all about equal between 125 and 140)

I've read that no more than 5 (also some have said 10) between any cylinders. I'm confused by your figures, being "about equal", Rob?

 

[RobPearce]

People quote figures largely at random. Sure, it would be nice to have all exactly equal, and if this were a recently rebuilt engine I'd hope for within about 5. However, this engine was last significantly worked on over thirty years ago and has sat in various damp barns for much of that time. All within 15 is OK - not enough to explain significant problems, at any rate. It may well explain the slight lumpiness that it's always had since I got it running again afew years back, but I can live with that.

[TimW]

3 hours ago, Dave Clasper said:

I've read that no more than 5 (also some have said 10) between any cylinders. I'm confused by your figures, being "about equal", Rob?

 

I understand it to be within 10% of each other not 5, 10 or 15 psi specifically.  

[rog1300]

On 17/09/2022 at 18:42, Dave Clasper said:

I've read that no more than 5 (also some have said 10) between any cylinders. I'm confused by your figures, being "about equal", Rob?

 

I believe it can make a difference depending on if you did the test with engine warm or cold too. I did mine cold recently and got 135,140,145 & 155psi on cyls 1-4.

Be interesting to repeat that this weekend when she is warm. 

[rog1300]

Only had my 73 MkIV since August. Had a whine from rear from 35mph and a 'rocking' of front wheels but only in 12 & 6 o'clock positions. I've changed front wheel bearings this last week and fronts seem just fine now. Old grease was like badly water contaminated engine oil - just horrible! I would trial her out to the club meet tonight but I've got to work. 

Not sure where to start with the rear whine though....bit by bit...

[rog1300]

Not for the purist I know, but I like them.

[RobPearce]

26 minutes ago, rog1300 said:

Not for the purist I know, but I like them.

Well they're certainly, err... blue. 😝  Quite a tidy looking engine bay.

How would you characterise the rear-end whine? Is it load dependent?

[rog1300]

13 minutes ago, RobPearce said:

Well they're certainly, err... blue. 😝  Quite a tidy looking engine bay.

How would you characterise the rear-end whine? Is it load dependent?

Hi Rob. whole car is pretty good thank you :)

the whine is kinda just there from 35mph - only managed 50mph so far - felt like 100! :)  coming off throttle makes no difference - so pretty continuous I'd say but far less noticeable under 35.

[Clive]

1 hour ago, rog1300 said:

Only had my 73 MkIV since August. Had a whine from rear from 35mph and a 'rocking' of front wheels but only in 12 & 6 o'clock positions. I've changed front wheel bearings this last week and fronts seem just fine now. Old grease was like badly water contaminated engine oil - just horrible! I would trial her out to the club meet tonight but I've got to work. 

Not sure where to start with the rear whine though....bit by bit...

We have a resident gearbox/diff chappie at the meetings (Pete) I am sure he will be happy to have a listen and give his thoughts. He is always there at the meetings, so whenever you can make it.

[glang]

58 minutes ago, rog1300 said:

Only had my 73 MkIV since August. Had a whine from rear from 35mph and a 'rocking' of front wheels but only in 12 & 6 o'clock positions. I've changed front wheel bearings this last week and fronts seem just fine now. Old grease was like badly water contaminated engine oil - just horrible! I would trial her out to the club meet tonight but I've got to work. 

Not sure where to start with the rear whine though....bit by bit...

Its essential the wheel bearings have play you know and its most easily felt at the 12 and 6 positions because otherwise you tend to move the steering. Its difficult to think of anything that could wear in the wheel bearings to give excessive play just at that position as both inner and outer races are designed to rotate to spread wear evenly. Is it possible that the play is in the top ball joint and/or bottom trunnion as this can feel like wheel bearing play but is obviously only present at 12 and 6 oclock?

[rog1300]

30 minutes ago, glang said:

Its essential the wheel bearings have play you know and its most easily felt at the 12 and 6 positions because otherwise you tend to move the steering. Its difficult to think of anything that could wear in the wheel bearings to give excessive play just at that position as both inner and outer races are designed to rotate to spread wear evenly. Is it possible that the play is in the top ball joint and/or bottom trunnion as this can feel like wheel bearing play but is obviously only present at 12 and 6 oclock?

hi - everything is rock solid - I did think it couldn't be wheel bearing with just a 12 & 6 rock but it does seem so. I only turned the castle nut one flat at a time back from a medium firm hand tight position til there was no rocking of wheel - i.e one more flat of undoing resulted in rocking.. this seemed best to me. time will tell :)